APPLIANCES
RV Appliance Repair — Mobile Service in Stockton & the Central Valley
A fridge that warms up, a water heater that won't light, a furnace that blows cold — these end a trip fast. I come to the RV and diagnose the actual appliance failure instead of telling you to just replace it. Dometic, Norcold, Suburban, and the rest of the house-side appliances, on-site.
What I Repair
Dometic and Norcold refrigerators (absorption and 12V compressor)
Suburban and Atwood water heaters (gas, electric and combo)
Furnaces (Suburban, Atwood, Hydro Flame)
Ranges, cooktops and ovens
Microwaves (convection and standard)
Washers and dryers (Splendid, vented and combo)
Water pumps (Shurflo, Flojet) and pressure issues
Thermocouples, igniters and control boards
Heating element and burner assembly replacement
Common Problems I See
Fridge not cooling on gas or electric
Absorption fridges fail from cooling-unit issues, bad boards, or a dirty burner. I test the heating elements and board before recommending a cooling-unit replacement.
Water heater won't light or trips the ECO
Bad thermocouple, dirty burner, or failed ECO/limit switch. Most are fixable without a new tank.
Furnace blows cold or won't ignite
Sail switch, board, or burner issue. I test the sail switch and gas valve before replacing the board.
Water pump runs constantly or won't shut off
Leak downstream, bad pressure switch, or a stuck check valve.
Fridge works on one power source but not the other
Usually a board or heating element, not the cooling unit. I isolate which before you spend on the expensive part.
Microwave or convection oven dead
Internal fuse, board, or magnetron. I tell you honestly when a replacement is cheaper than the repair.
Central Valley–Specific Notes
Absorption fridges struggle in Central Valley heat — they're rated to about a 90° ambient, and 105° days push them past it. I check the burner and ventilation, because a dirty burner and poor airflow are the usual reason a Norcold or Dometic 'fails' in summer when the cooling unit is actually fine. Water heaters sit unused in storage lots and the anode rod rots; I pull and inspect it. Furnaces in Delta-marina rigs corrode from humidity. I diagnose before I sell parts.
My absorption fridge stopped cooling — is the cooling unit dead?
Not always. A failed heating element, bad board, or dirty burner can mimic a dead cooling unit. I test those first before recommending the expensive replacement.
Can you fix my water heater at the campground?
Yes. Most water heater repairs — thermocouple, ECO, burner, element — are done at the rig.
Should I replace my old fridge with a 12V compressor fridge?
It depends on your battery and solar setup. I'll give you an honest read on whether your electrical system can support one before you buy.
My furnace worked last year and now blows cold — what's common?
The sail switch and the board are the two most common causes. I test the sail switch first; it's often dust or corrosion, not a board.
01
Diagnosis First
I check the actual failure points — control boards, heating elements, and burners — instead of just telling you to buy a new $2,000 fridge.
02
Mobile Repair
Most appliance repairs are done at your rig. I stock common Dometic, Norcold, Suburban, and Atwood parts to get it running in one visit.
03
Honest Assessment
If a repair isn't cost-effective comparison to a replacement, I'll tell you. No hidden fees or unnecessary part-swapping.
Serving Stockton & The Central Valley
Stockton
Lodi
Manteca
Tracy
Modesto
Brentwood
Lathrop
Ripon
Central Valley Marinas
Included: House-side RV systems (appliances, plumbing, electrical, roof, slide-outs), mobile diagnostic and repair — I come to you.
Not Included: Engines, drivetrain, chassis mechanicals, towing service.