Frequent Asked Questions

Often yes, or it needs reconfiguration. Lithium needs a different charge voltage. I'll check yours and tell you whether it can be set up for lithium or needs to go.

I test both under load before recommending anything. A dead converter kills new batteries in weeks, so replacing just the battery wastes your money if the converter's the problem.

Yes. I isolate which circuit is leaking — usually moisture in an outside outlet or a water heater element — instead of just swapping the outlet.

I install and wire charge controllers and battery monitors and make sure the charging path is right. I'll tell you honestly what your setup can support.

On 30-amp service, a rooftop A/C and a microwave together can pull more than the system can handle. Sometimes that's just load. Sometimes it's a weak breaker or a loose connection making it worse. I check both, and I can tell you whether a soft start on the A/C would help.

Yes, with the right adapter, but a standard 15-amp household outlet will only run the basics: lights, the fridge on electric, and charging the batteries. It won't run the A/C. Use a short, heavy-gauge cord, not a thin household extension cord.

Usually it's the transfer switch, the part that swaps the RV between shore power and the generator. A tripped generator breaker or a bad connection can also cause it. I test the generator's output and the transfer switch to find which one it is.

Very often, yes. Lights draw almost nothing, so they'll run on batteries that are too weak to move a slide or jack. I test the battery under load and check the charging system before anyone touches the motors.

Standard flooded lead-acid batteries usually last 3 to 5 years with good care. In San Joaquin Valley heat, and in rigs that sit in storage without a maintenance charge, it can be much shorter. Lithium batteries last longer but need the right charging setup.

Turn off the battery disconnect, keep the batteries on a maintenance charger or solar if you can, and check the water level in flooded batteries every month. Heat speeds up battery wear, so storage-lot rigs need extra attention.

On many rigs, the propane/CO detector and some other circuits are wired so they keep drawing power even with the disconnect off. A failing component can also cause a hidden drain. I can measure the draw and track down where it's coming from.

Yes. Low voltage, reversed polarity or a missing ground at a pedestal can damage your converter, A/C and other electronics. I recommend a surge protector with low-voltage shutoff, and I can test a pedestal and your shore cord if you think something's wrong.

Unplug at the pedestal and stop using that connection. A hot or discolored plug usually means a loose or corroded connection, and those can start fires. Call or text me before plugging back in.

Yes. The right inverter depends on what you want to run and how much battery you have. Running a microwave or coffee maker takes a much bigger battery bank than charging phones. I'll size it to your setup so you're not draining the batteries in an hour.

On 30-amp service, a rooftop A/C and a microwave together can pull more than the system can handle. Sometimes that’s just load. Sometimes it’s a weak breaker or a loose connection making it worse. I check both, and I can tell you whether a soft start on the A/C would help.